… for blog negligence? If so, then I must plead “Guilty, m’lud!” The funny thing is, the longer I leave an update, the harder it is to get back in the saddle. As the days go by, so the little events that would make a nice newsy snack, quickly float too far into the past to feel relevant any longer – that’s if I remember them at all. And then there’s all the stuff that happens that you can’t blog. Stuff that really should be aired out of principle, stuff that shouldn’t for different principles, and stuff that, for all sorts of diplomatic reasons and pragmatic ones, has to stay under wraps. It’s a frustrating business at times, this blogging lark, but more about that particular can of worms in a later post.
On the other hand, since much of life comprises not of major dramas but of this little event followed by that little event – few signifying anything of great import to the rest of the world – well, perhaps it’s a good thing I have, of late, let so many ‘little events’ float away in a slipstream of yesterdays.
But hey, here we are. Saddled up and spurs a-ready to kick this ol’ mule of a blog back into action once more.
Ok-a-a-a-a-a-y, now, where to begin? Ah yes, I know …
Since leaving you last, we’ve made a couple of return trips to one of our favourite haunts, Sandy Island, off Carriacou. As you pootle in passing the distinctive outline of the Two Sisters rocks (seen left), there is little to herald the abiding charm of this tiny bank of white sand and coral chips and pelicans. It’s only after you’ve dropped the hook (not easy due to poor holding, some shallow depths and scattered reefs), that you sense you’re somewhere rather magical. Slip on a snorkel mask and a pair of fins and that magic will become more apparent with every lazy kick. The sea there is teeming with life. I’m gushing here, but it really is a mesmerizing fishfest guaranteed to keep you amused (well it keeps us amused) for a goodly hour or more, till eventually fingers wrinkle and – unheard of in these tropical climes – the blood begins to cool just a little too much for comfort.
The first of our two visits this time, and the sea was broiling with frenzied activity – shoals upon shoals of tiny fish herded by shoals of larger fish and the odd scaly, leaping despot of even greater girth. The pelicans were taking their fill too – a flock of twenty and more had flown in to fill their crops and bellies with gusto. Watching pelicans diving (and the altogether more stealthy Boobies), is endlessly fascinating. The Boobies (aarrgghh that wretched, ill-thought out moniker!) hit the water like a missile – streamlined, rocket propelled, wings flattened to their bullet-like bodies, hardly a splash to mark their entrance.
The pelicans, on the other hand, fling themselves out of the sky, hitting the water in a crumpled heap, rarely submerging beyond head and shoulders (do birds have shoulders?), in a surprisingly efficient but comically inelegant muss of activity. How wing and neck aren’t smashed on impact is a complete mystery. Anyway, here’s a successful after shot … Gulp!
The second visit to Sandy Island we made last week, and the feeding frenzy had passed. We assume the bottom of the food chain had been mostly decimated or grown or flown – well, swum, then, to safer shores. If the small fry were much reduced, not so the larger fish. A rainbow of colour and endlessly different shapes and marking, the delights of the coral reefs and the stunning varieties of underwater life remained undimmed. I haven’t yet learned to name most of the fish found there in such rich abundance – it’s a big undertaking. Nor have I attempted to photograph them – yet. But I will, they are a photo opportunity and then some.
While there, we were joined by Mark (on s/v Irie) – who some months ago supplied us with our wifi adapter, the excellent Wirie. Thanks to that clever little gizmo we could, had we wanted, had internet access even at Sandy Island, but distances mean the connection is rather fluky and an occasional Wifi sabbatical is probably a healthy thing, so we didn’t bother.
The only downside to Sandy Island is not a lack of strong wifi, but the fact it is very popular. Now the charter season is upon us, there is a never-ending stream of boats pulling in, and with the difficult holding, the good bits tend to get a little crowded. That said, many charters only stop for an hour or so to snorkel and move off well before evening, so leaving the remaining boats (like Butterfly and Irie) to enjoy a little more space and plenty of peace. Consequently the early mornings and nights are the most magical.
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Now what else? Oh yes, Dick completed his PADI diving course (well done that man), and I – er, didn’t. There’s an excellent dive outfit here in Grenada based at Prickly, called ScubaTech. The guys that run it are not only good, but just damn nice folk to boot. But after a morning in full sub-aqua diving gear in the Calabash Hotel swimming pool, I emerged fairly enthused, but deaf. The afternoon’s dive in open water only made matters worse and blow, yawn, jaw-wiggle or snort – one ear just refused to equalize. If this happens, the increasing knife-like pain in the unco-operative lughole as you attempt to descend further is no party, so I left Dick to finish the lesson with Jeremiah and swapped all that tonnage of tank and BCD (Buoyancy Control Device – an inflatable jacket to you and me) and its Medusa like piping, for a simple mask and tube and joined the snorkeling party instead.
Neil, friend and qualified diving instructor, tells me he had the same ear equalization problem when he first tried to scuba dive, but that subsequent attempts were a walk in the park. So who knows, I’ll try again, perhaps. On the other hand, both of us (meaning Dick and I not Neil and I) would rather learn to free dive if we can master it. None of that expensive, weighty clobber and none of the fartarse footling with equipment and safety checks to get ready. Just take a deep breath, chill out to slow the metabolism – and down ya go!
One last word on diving and snorkeling. If you come to Grenada, be sure to book a trip to Flamingo Bay on the lower west coast. There you will find Sculpture Park – an underwater folly. The ‘park’ consists of a seemingly randomly scattered collection of life-size statues – men, women and children – that were cast on land and then lowered down on to the seabed – which is where you’ll find them now. A little dilapidated some, but most are in excellent shape considering their environment. There’s a man on a bicycle gently topping forwards, another sitting at a table; a circle of children holding hands (faces now eerily sprouting weeds); a collection of plump bellied, buxom-bottied sunbathers, some face up, some face down – all wearing little more than a veil of weed or a brooch of barnacles – and probably some more I’ve overlooked. All of the statues are perfectly visible from the surface if snorkeling, and all are guaranteed to bring a smile. In fact, although nothing more than a delightfully useless witty nonsense – the statues are well worth the trip. And once you’ve had your fill of salt-pickled sculpture, you can flipper over to the nearby reef and spend time among a slightly livelier bunch of characters – of the piscine variety.
By the way, if you can’t figure out how to get to Flaming Bay and Sculpture Park under your own steam, just cross their palms with silver and Scubatech will ferry you there in their diveboat.
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And what else? Ah yes, Oceans Dream, that’s what! Just as Neil and Tracy left us to head back to Blighty’s cold and wind-swept shores, so Jackie and Adrian arrived on their Admiral 40 to keep us company, here in Prickly Bay. We’ve been in email contact with J & A for some time, and so it was great to meet at last (O boy did we have a lot to talk about!) Although we knew they were finally escaping Trinidad after being on the hard there since February (read their excellent blog to find out why) – and that they were now heading our way - it still came as a lovely surprise, drawing the cabin curtains early one morning, to see Oceans Dream moored to starboard. Soon, it will be our turn to disappear back to Blighty for a spell, but we’re hoping we might be able to meet up with Jackie and Adrian, Neil and Tracy – and no doubt some of the other Prickly Bay gang – in Bequia over the Christmas period.
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Lastly – it’s well gone midnight here, and I’m in need of matchsticks – it would be churlish not to mention that at last we have the warranty parts we’ve been a-wanting and a-needing. Thank you African Cats.
Not surprisingly, given that some parts we have needed rather urgently for some time (the saloon door bolts in particular, which had corroded with alarming vigor), Dick has been busy installing/replacing/fitting – whatever – many of them as fast as he can.
The boatyard repair work, however, is another matter for another day. Although one yard has been very timely in giving us quotes, the other has not. As week after week goes by without success – very, very not timely! However, quote delays aside, they are reputed to do good work.
On the maintenance front, apart from the usual stuff, we also have to cure our galley fridge from turning itself off at night – a new and unwelcome habitNot entirely cracked the cause yet, but we’re on the right track. This unit has been a source of trouble one way and another rather too much for my liking, needing frequent nursing and creating a lot of mess. That we have two fridges aboard, and that the other (a large chest variety) cools things far better anyway, is a big bonus.
I must say we are just very grateful that at the time of going to press (oooh, my, how pretentiously grand that sounds) – we have nothing seriously amiss to give us sleepless nights. At least nothing we are aware of, says she cautiously. And hand on heart, that’s the truth – yes, a whole lot of niggles to iron out, you betcha, but with that shipment arriving, less now than we had a fortnight ago. Even better, as things stand, there is nothing to stop us sailing safely and efficiently, which is indeed a blessing. Hoo-ever-so-rah!
Whatever her troubled start in life, all the signs are Butterfly is gonna do alright.

































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