01
Nov
09

Heck, is that the date …

… alright, already? Sorry about the no-show. All sorts of excuses for not honouring that update promise in the last post – all of them valid; none of them interesting. But the main, and most boring excuse of them all, is that my laptop battery is on its deathbed.  Fifteen minutes is all the charge it will now hold. When we return to the UK I will be buying a replacement and blog updates will be far more frequent … well, that’s the plan. You’ve certainly been a faithful lot checking in regularly despite the lack of new material, so a big thank you.

Okay, amigos, on with business …

prickly-bay This is the view from the back of the boat.  The headland and entrance to – guess where – Prickly Bay, of course! But during this recent radio silence, we’ve also pootered back and forth along the south coast to St David’s again, enjoyed a few quiet nights at Whisper Cove and a few quiet days at Clarkes Court Bay Marina.  There were various errands to attend to that necessitated the trips, but even without such practical excuses, it’s just great to move around some.

At last, the hurricane season is drawing to a close – only a month to go before our insurance will allow us to venture north of Carriacou once more.  Since June, Grenada has been home to a lot of cruisers sitting out the hurricane season, and many firm friendships have been forged. The hubs of this great little community, here at Prickly, are always the Tiki Bar and de Big Fish, with cruisers alternating between the two according to whichever establishment is providing Happy Hour that night – or the best entertainment.

But now as the humidity levels get a little less silly and the sweatometer gauge drops,  boats are on the move again. Each day another trickle of cruisers strike out for the horizon before making a right at Prickly Point to make their way northwards up through the island chain. Each evening, another set of familiar faces (many of whom have become good friends) are now conspicuous by their absence from the Tiki or De Big Fish.  No doubt we’ll bump into them at some point later, since we plan to do pretty much the same soonishly and evenutally head north. The difference for us, is that we must return to Grenada come mid-January for warranty work repairs, when they can better accommodate us at Grenada Marine boatyard. Both main boatyards are chocka at present, though they are just beginning to empty as folk who have left their boats on the hard to go home, return to the Caribbean to resume their cruising. But we’ve been assured January will be the quietest time for the sort of work we need doing, so that’s the deal.

By the way, more detail about warranty work once we have a complete overview and all the financial aspects of warranty issues have been settled  – and paid.  But in the interim, it is clear that African Cats do not/will not agree with our surveyor on some of the repair/remedial work he considers elegible for warranty status.  In short, we will be footing a sizeable chunk of the bill to ensure Butterfly is made strong and safe and nicely finished. I dare say those of you who regularly follow this blog, are as unsurprised as we are.

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cuttyIf you come to Grenada, you simply must take an island tour with Cutty.  We took our time getting round to this,  but good things are worth waiting for – and Cutty’s tour is definitely A Very Good Thing.

From 9.00 am till about 5.30 pm in air-conditioned comfort, you are transported on a winding leisurely tour of the best and the most interesting the island has to offer.  And I promise you, you will be in excellent company with a host who knows his homegrown onions and how.

Even between the various ports of call, Cutty  frequently stops the bus, saunters over to the roadside, and breaks off leaves and twigs and berries and grasses growing in rich and chaotic profusion everywhere,  for you to sniff and sample – always with a colourful description of what these are and how they grow and what they’re used for. The aromatic blast from freshly torn lemongrass, newly crushed pimentos is a world away from those tired and shrivelled offerings in supermarket jars.

Pit stops are included for swims under invigoratingly chilly waterfalls (heck, I sound like a Thomson brochure); an inspection of the local rum factory – a thoroughly Dickensian affair, both fascinating and slightly horrifying from a UK health and safety inspector’s point of view. Luckily, the strength of the brew must render the ‘rustic’ manufacturing conditions sterile. This is the way they have made rum for eons here no doubt and I for one hope the health and safety guys keep well away. It has a charm and history that is far more appealing than the soul-less spick and span modern breweries of today.

rum-factory-guys grapefruit-and-rum

Er, grapefruit and rum, anyone????

spices-grenada

Then there was a tour and talk given at a spice factory… quaintly authentic, with a gentle, bucolic setting and all-pervading, deliciously aromatic atmosphere. Outside were swathes of cocoa beans being ripened in the sun prior to processing (they smell anything but chocolatey!) – and more nutmeg than you could shake a stick at (it’s one of Grenada’s chief exports).cocoa-beans-drying-in-sun

The first half of the tour meanders northwards through the parishes of St George, St John, St Mark and St Patrick where a stroll through a graveyard led to a fabulous view and a site of many deaths at Leapers Hill.  Click on the pic and you can read why it was so named.leapers-hill-memorial-stone

… Although I must confess, I was far more taken with the humble and far less celebrated departure of a little girl just a stone’s throw from that plaque.

grave-stone-grenada

A little life cut so achingly short but one that few will ever know about.

monkey-eyes However, the indisputed star of the show had to be this chap. A bold Mona monkey who kept our cameras clicking during a pit stop in the Etang Forest Reserve. Cutty had come armed with plenty of monkey fodder (bananas ) and this little fella wasn’t shy about taking his fill – though he regularly turned his back on us to actually eat them. To paraphrase a well known wotsit “Manners maketh the monkey”.

Here he is again, helped by some dramatic lighting courtesy of the sun’s positioning being nicely low. Just love the rich tapestry of colours in his fur.

mona-monkey-fur-detail

The cost of the tour was, I think, about US $25 per person.  How often Cutty runs these tours, I’m not entirely sure, but every Thursday it seems to be a regular thing.

I’ve oodles more photos from the day, many which will never make this blog, but will post a few more up in the blog galley later when time and laptop battery allow. All in all it was a darned fine day and one I recommend you try if you’re Grenada bound.

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Okay, time to explain there’s a chess game – or three – going on, aboard Butterfly as I type this. Chris, John and Dick playing three games simultaneously, and judging by the groans and chuckles and cackles and sighs of despair, it’s obviously going well! The first pawn was shuffled around sometime about 4.00 pm, but it looks likely like they’ll be playing long into the night. Since Man, it must be said, does not live by check and mate alone,  I must vamoosh at this point to cobble together some sustenance for those battle-weary brains.

More (laptop and housebank batteries allowing) coming later …

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Footnote: sorry if those who subscribe to this blog with RSS feeds etc have received multiple editions of this post. I’m having the devil’s own at the moment, with WordPress messing up the layout of pics and text big time – that coupled with a sporadic wifi connection which is adding to the hassle factor.


2 Responses to “Heck, is that the date …”


  1. 1 Kirsten
    November 30, 2009 at 2:36 pm

    Cutty’s tour sounds exactly what I am looking for in Grenada. I have seen his name mentioned on several boards now but can not find any contact details for him. Do you have an email address or website for him and do you know if you can book his tours in advance?

    • 2 butterflyandbarnacle
      November 30, 2009 at 3:43 pm

      Hello Kirsten …

      I’m afraid I can’t find any mention of Cutty having a website and don’t know his email addy (if he has one). But you can reach him by phone on #473 407-5153. We booked up just a matter of days prior to the tour – but that was in the quieter hurricane season, with less charter boats and tourists around, of course. Best give him a ring and see what he says, perhaps.

      Karen


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