… I’d spend my 54th Christmas Eve and Boxing Day crawling over a boat, on hands and knees, with my head inside a cupboard madly mopping up leaks. But then after everything that’s gone before, it didn’t come as much of a surprise, either. More of those leaks later and back to Christmas 2008: for us it has been one of the strangest ever. Not all of it bad, I hasten to add, not by a long shot – and most of it very, very enjoyable. But weird – definitely weird.
For a start, with all our focus on moving aboard Butterfly – December 19th was our first night aboard – Christmas, for us, came and went with barely a jingle to distract. Not for us the usual frantic Christmas shopping, nor the stockpiling of festive food, no sending of cards; no trinkets for the Xmas tree and no tips for paperboys and dustbin men nor changing channels to escape the inevitable tired old TV repeats of The Great Escape and Only Fools and Horses. All that ding-dong-merrily-on-high-Santa-festooned-fake-snow-and-tinsel rigmarole now belongs strictly to the past, to our old life – at least for the next few years. Equally strange has been the wacky weather: here in Durban, it’s been so joyfully unseasonal for us Limeys as to be quite unreal: by turns, scorchingly sunny, sweatingly humid, wildly windy and tropically thundery. And sometimes all of those in the same day. Not the stuff of English heavens in late December, that’s for sure.
The only concession to normality was Christmas Day itself, when Mike and Lyn fed and watered us in fine style along with many of their kith and kin, out at their holiday home in Munster. But then their kindness and friendship have been wonderful throughout our stay in Durban, and we’ll miss them horribly when we leave SA.
For the rest of this Christmas period, it has been all things boaty. And generally, the process of turning Butterfly into a home has made it a satisfying time. With moving aboard, we at last have the gathering sense that the adventure we’ve been waiting and planning for so long is at last upon us, making us even more anxious to just get on with it. But it appears we must still be patient. Even after these eight long months we’ve been waiting for AfricanCats to finish the boat, there are still flies in the Butterfly ointment that need swatting. For example, within hours of moving aboard we discovered not one, but four leaks. Yes, four – and all but one of them due to poor connections- humble jubilee clips not properly tightened. Silly little nuisances and simple to fix, of course, but not that simple finding the origin of each leak. For, as is the way of things, the escaping water showed up some distance from the source. At one crazy point, about 11pm on Christmas Eve, tired and grubby and frazzled by finding little lakes here, and dribbles there, we were frantically mopping up one puddle in the starboard hull, when I popped upstairs to the galley to run the tap to help empty the tank – only to find the galley floor and cupboards now themselves awash. The cause? Yet another faulty jubilee connection between pipe and tap fitting that gushed only when the pipe was at certain angles. I’d found a puddle under the sink within minutes of moving aboard, which I’d mopped up immediately hoping it was nothing serious – but now at least I knew where it had come from. The fourth leak, however, turned out not to be a plumbing problem, but a faulty water tank lid. It just doesn’t seal, full stop, and needs replacing. But still, to paraphrase Oscar Wilde (wildly), “to hand over a boat to a customer with one leak is unfortunate; to hand over a boat with four leaks looks like carelessness.” Surely somebody from AfricanCats must have spotted and known about these issues? They weren’t exactly hard to find and it was clear most had been leaking for some time. Also waiting to greet us, a few other problems too:
- A big buggeroo this – the fridge/freezer in the galley area doesn’t work. The power is there, the compressor compresses, but not a single degree of chill is to be had anywhere. Gas loss, perhaps? Dunno. But we can’t leave Durban until it’s resolved that is for sure. Frank, who bought Hull No 3, African SeaWing (you’ll find the English translation helpfully beneath the Belgian version on each post) – has also had his fair share of problems with this model of fridge/freezer – though we believe this was due to the anodes being corroded away. But essentially he took delivery of the boat without it working, and it took him a year to get it functional. Not unnaturally, we’re beginning to question the reliability of the model itself.
- The wind genny is also faulty – despite Steven’s assertion all is wired correctly. We’ve had some wild, wild wind this past week and although it whirs wonderfully, makes a lot of electricity too (hooray!), it doesn’t respond to the control panel in the nav station at all – in short, we can’t turn the damned thing off. This problem has only materialized since the mast foot was replaced and reconnection of wiring work effected. While we hope it is just a matter of re-thinking the wiring, there is the possibility that we may need a replacement genny. The manufacturers of the Airbreeze state quite clearly that if not wired in correctly, the genny’s electronics can be thoroughly buggered.
- The Mastervolt and Blue Sky unit are still at odds with their battery status readings. Something we’ve been whining (as opposed to whirring – boom, boom!) about for six or seven months, until lately, to no avail. The recent rewiring hasn’t cured it, so now we’re wondering what did get rewired???
- Cabin doors: to be blunt, they’re warped. Bend at the tops like a banana. In fact they bend away from their frames so much so you can get a full finger or two between the top of the frame and the top of the door, and it’s impossible to shut the starboard door at all from the outside. Also, the port cabin door has delaminated, pretty badly, all down the centre from top to bottom. The head doors are better, but we’re wondering if the flimsiness of the door is basically its undoing.
- Portside head: the blackwater pump is missing a valve so takes twice as long to remove the same amount of gunk/liquid as the starboard. The starboard pump, on the other hand, is a violent avaricious beastie that threatens to devour anything and anyone who stands before it, so thankfully no waste worries with that one!
- The dishwasher soap powder won’t dissolve. A weird one this. The dishwasher has many programmes (far too many, imho) but on one programme and one only does the soap powder dissolve. On all the other progs, it just sits in a soggy, sullen lump in its compartment, looking clumpy and belligerent. Not enough water? Water not hot enough? Water not directed properly? Haven’t a clue. Considering this rather slim number cost a ridiculous sum, we’re not very impressed, that’s for sure.
And – STOP PRESS – but we have just discovered our fifth leak tonight– in the wretched portside engine compartment, home to the infamous Leak of Leaks that caused so much hassle and expense and grief from the moment Butterfly went into the water. We can’t pinpoint where this latest leak is coming from – not yet, but we do know it isn’t engine coolant (which is blueish), and it isn’t very much, thank god. But it still shouldn’t be there, whatever it is or isn’t. Sooooo (big breath here and eyes rolling skywards), it’s back to bloody mopping up, talc-ing, and checking every day to see if it continues. Not a lot of joy when all your nice new, clean bedding is now sitting on top of that engine compartment. One glimmer of faint hope is that Dick then found yet another set of slightly loose jubilee clip connections in the rudder compartment behind that beleaguered engine compartment, together with a smear of oily water lying below the faulty joints. In other words, our leak just may be due to seepage from the water-cooled exhaust system. Personally, I don’t think this is likely, since the smear really was absolutely miniscule but it would be a very acceptable explanation right now. Another possibility is water flowing back in through the bilge outlets when sailing in choppy seas. The one-way valves of these thru-hull fittings have proved to be rather feeble to say the least. That said, we’ve only taken the boat out once since moving aboard (on Saturday), and it wasn’t that choppy at all, but it is strange this water has only appeared in recent days. The leak water was also very oily – possibly due to the water picking up some earlier spillage of gearbox oil when the saildrive was replaced during the most recent repairs on the hard. But, of course, all this is conjecture. All we do know is we’re just a teensy-weensy bit up to fecking ‘ere in finding yet more leaks.
- As for the watermaker and new windlass– we’ve still to test them, though Doug said the watermaker was ticketty-boo when we went out with Gideon, himself and Angelo Lavranos before Christmas. For ourselves, we’ve been too busy de-leaking, and organizing other stuff to put it to the test. But we’ll get both done well before Gideon’s team return to work on January 5th to ensure they really are performing as they should.
So that’s the quibble factor dealt with. But it’s obvious we are going to be captive in Durban for a while longer while they get fixed. All these things could be put right speedily, we know that – but we also know from bitter experience just how l-o-n-g it takes in reality. So while we’re delighted now to be living on the boat, trying to keep the lid on an increasing Vesuvius of frustration is becoming a real mission. Moan over. So let’s move on to the good things.
- Firstly, we love living aboard Butterfly. She’s bright and airy and spacious and very comfortable and easy to move around. As mentioned before, she’s also a bit of a head-turner. A real bonny lassy. Surprises us (pleasantly) just how much interest and genuine compliments she gets from folk passing on the pontoon.
- The cabins are large and yet cosy – especially when the wind is blowing a hoolie outside and the rain is drumming as if it wants to come in.
- Ignoring the leaks inside (down to two, now: only one to be solved, the other easily remedied), she’s definitely a dry boat on the outside. Despite the torrential rainstorms we’ve had this past week – and it has bucketed down violently for hours at a stretch – not a drop has penetrated her defences. All hatches, portholes and doors appear to be reassuringly watertight.
- Ample storage space – almost too much storage space. We were seriously regretting lugging so many personal goodies aboard, together with so many extra warps and drogues and anchors and heck-knows-what-other-sailory-stuff. Well, the outside lockers are all full and being greedy, we would have liked a little more room in the forward lockers and in the cockpit, but inside, we have cupboard space to spare … well, just (mustn’t get too carried away here). But at least when we come to stock up for ocean-crossing passages, there should be plenty of food storage room available.
- The shower rooms – and showers – are a definite plus. The showerrooms are light, bright, airy and roomy and the showers are fulsome – too fulsome for the drains to cope with it seems. We have to turn the shower off for a spell to allow the water to flow away, before resuming. And with both porthole and hatch in that area, when moored, it’s possible to open both and so dry out the area nice and quickly. Although a couple of improvements would be to alter the level of the floor in these areas, since water pools in one corner and has to be sponged away – because it misses the draining sink altogether. A small point, but one that should be easily remedied on future boats.
- The galley is very well equipped and the hob and oven work well. But while Dick finds the height of the work-surface just dandy, I’ve had to buy a stool! At 5ft 5” (and a half), I’m just too short to be able to peer into the bottom of the pans when cooking; similarly stirring seems to involve elbows up around my shoulders while standing on tiptoes – which is uncomfortable and unnatural. But with my sturdy, standfast stool – problemo sorted. (I also need this stool for attending to the sailbag, and as a foot rest when helming. So, it was R50 well spent. Butterfly is definitely more man-portioned, than woman … unless that woman is more Amazonian in stature than I, of course.
- Night lights – safety lights: these are excellent and a lovely thoughtful touch. Gideon has not only placed them in the saloon to enhance night vision when doing night sailing, but also has them placed throughout the hulls at floor level. Turned on at night for safety reasons, the red is kind to the eyes, soothing, but illuminates the floor very effectively. Of all the gizmos and gadgets aboard, these have perhaps tickled me the most … I love ‘em! I also like the reading lights – which come with the same red LED option. For tired eyes they make a wonderfully relaxing light – one that doesn’t disturb the poor beloved trying to sleep beside you.
Whoops, just seen the time: 12.30 a.m. More a little later …










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