… this blog got under way again. When last we left you, we had arrived for a brief stay in Capetown, before flying home because our S.A. visas were about to expire and couldn’t be renewed. And my, how we enjoyed Capetown’s wonderfully cheery, bright and breezy ambience. Always bustling, always spruce and slick and confident of its own success, it bristles with an energy and life that is delightfully contagious. We absolutely fell in love with the place. Wandering around the waterfront at night, under clear skies and a dusting of stars, we were entertained by wonderfully lithe street dancers, rappers, singers and musicians; ate alfresco at restaurants with starched crisp linen and dapper waiters, and looking up, marvelled at the gulls, illuminated by the city street lights below, shimmering whitely against the inky sky.
During the day, we visited the marina, spoke to other boat owners, admired their boats, were introduced to delivery skippers, and in the process, made some new friends. Later we ambled along the coast stopping here and there to walk and photograph and enjoy the feel of temperate sun and wind and marvel at the snaking trails of cirrus, occasional puff-balls of cumulus scudding briskly by – never dense or slow enough to grey the sky.
You’ll see what I mean if you check out the shot above – taken from the top of Table Mountain. I have frame upon frame of similar Shangrila vistas – the real thing being almost too beautiful for the camera to capture. But this will give you an idea of the magic to be found there – and all for a paltry 145 Rand per person (just under a tenner) – the price of a short cable car ascent.
In fact, tearing ourselves away from this glorious city and its omnipresent towering overlord was made bearable only by the prospect of seeing our dearly beloveds back at home in the UK. To be perfectly truthful, the UK itself held no draw at all – useful only to stock up on some non-essentials like Polo mints and Lipton’s peach and lemon tea – addictions of mine – and, oh yes, to do a little internet ordering: something that’s not exactly wise to do over here in S.A., given the tendency for postal stuff to find its way into hands other than your own. (Amazon won’t even supply South African based customers any more due to the scale of the theft problem).
While in the UK, we also sold my car, it being cheaper to rent one for the short periods we may need one there, rather than insure and tax the one sitting on our drive. Real sorry to say goodbye to it, too – since it ( a Toyota Avensis 1.8) though hardly glamorous, has been a thoroughly reliable chariot for the past 10 years. Even more sorry that the scallywags that bought it, first tried to con us into reducing the price substantially to allow for it not running smoothly. But then no car runs smoothly if a prospective buyer, when the owner isn’t looking, removes the oxygen sensor! The sneaky little gits (there were three of them, the buyer and his two mates) didn’t get away with it, however, since we suspected (but couldn’t be sure) of what they’d done, and having got thoroughly weary of their insistent haggling over the bogus (ahem) ‘fault’, we locked the car up, wished them goodnight, and made to walk back to the house and close the door. That did it, out came the wad of greasy crispies (in full payment) and although we would have loved to have told them where to shove it, a quick (if slightly annoying) sale only hours after our advert first appeared in AutoTrader was just what we wanted. So we gave them the keys, pocketed the cash, and offered a silent prayer they’d get a flat on their way home for their pains.Soooo …Lesson learned: don’t leave your car unattended when a prospective buyer (and his car-dealer cronies) turn up on a dark night and ask you for an extra torch to look under the bonnet. While you run inside to fetch one, who knows what mischief they may brew. Be warned!
But now we find ourselves back in Durban – refreshed and happy to have had a fortnight without thinking about boats and their problemos and mighty glad for some wonderful time with kith and kin and a change of scenery. And while it’s been lovely re-uniting with friends here in South Africa, and making new ones – Silvia and Pier (FastCat customers for hull no. 8); Peter and Daniel (prospective customers, thinking about buying a FastCat) – all out here in Durban to see Butterfly and the factory and meet with Gideon – it’s not been so great discovering that:
(a) the Capi situation still hasn’t been resolved and the watermaker is still not functioning properly and the mastervolt battery indicator and Blue Sky unit still can’t agree on how full the bloody batteries are. Nor has the approval from SAMSA to give us full South African registration, been found as yet. But these are as nothing compared to ….
(b) that the recurring leak in the portside engine compartment, far from being cured, is – well, still bloody leaking. In fact, it’s worse now than it’s ever been. As usual, it was Dick and I who found it. But then it wasn’t very difficult – all we had to do was open up the engine hatch and there, lurking by the bilge was a generous puddle – more than I’ve ever seen there before. Oh, and it gets better: another puddle – a new development this – lurked inside the well (the area contained by the walls of the engine bed) below the engine itself. Why we were the only ones to discover this, we haven’t a clue. But checking the bilges is the first thing we do every time we board the boat – a good practice anyway – especially given Butterfly’s ‘leaky’ history. We’re told that staff checked for leaks in our absence and found none, the implication being that the water must have found its way in just before we arrived … we’ll leave you to make of that what you will.
To say this is the welcome back to Durban we least wanted is an understatement of gross proportions. But what it definitely isn’t - is a shock or surprise. Truth is we’ve come to expect this sort of thing. It’s just another hurdle to overcome and after everything that’s gone before, hey, what’s one more? The real shock and surprise will come when the day dawns that NOTHING leaks and EVERYTHING works!
So what’s to do now? Well, poor ol’ (she’s been in the water too long to call new, any more) Butterfly will again be lifted from the water and the engine removed, and a new engine bed installed, since Gideon and Steven feel this may be the cause of the problem. Perhaps a minute fracture caused when the crazy trucker smashed Butterfly’s prop into the roadside? Perhaps it’s something to do with the excessive vibration (that’s since been dampened) – the one I used to notice and have repeatedly mentioned – felt when standing on the deck and top step of the sugar scoop above the port cabin that houses the leaky engine compartment? Perhaps this, perhaps that … Hell, we (and African Cats) just don’t know. We’ve shone torches, checked connections, dried every last drop and sprinkled talcum powder around till the boat smells like a newly-bathed baby’s bottom, but no clue as to the source of the leak can we find as yet. But one thing is a given: find it we must – and find it we will.
And given that moaning about it won’t fix it, and that to his credit, Gideon is as determined to get the problem fixed as we are, we might as well look on the bright side: once the boat is out of the water again, we can do another check on the prop anodes and grounding plates and see how well they’ve fared since the electrolysis problem was (apparently) solved. Given the speed of corrosion before, discovered when Butterfly was first lifted for repairs, this second dry-docking, we hope, will either serve to put our minds at rest on that score at least, or highlight the need to come up with Plan B – and fast.
Oh, and on another positive note, the saloon doors have now been finished and look wonderful – inside and out. Hooray!
It’s funny, but y’know, when I started this blog it was with the expectation of writing a few opening posts about moving out to Durban to test-sail Butterfly, a few posts about moving aboard her and making her into a home, and from thereon in, this gentle little backwater of cyberspace would be reserved for regaling friends and family, and those interested with stories of exotic shores and quaint harbours and how we fared in foam and spray and fair winds and foul gales and mistakes we’ve made and tricks we’ve learned … And … And … here we are, our seventy-something post and we haven’t even been able to move aboard, far less leave Durban behind us yet. How sweet the day will be when we can do both those things, and how sweeter still after the storms we’ve had to weather to get there!
Anyhoo, it’s late now. A raging thunderstorm is underway and typing this in Lena’s bar (where the internet connection is best) thunder drowns the crickets, and drips of rain are falling through the roof in places and splattering on the keyboard – so time to quit.
Back with you very soonishly … and a safe night all.